Why Ekiti Aso Oke is the Most Underrated Nigerian Fabric

by Fathia Olasupo

When you think of Nigerian traditional fabric, your mind likely jumps to lace from Aba, George wrappers from Calabar, or the popular Aso Oke from Ibadan and Oyo. But far away in Ekiti is a version of Aso Oke that few people talk about. It’s not flashy. It doesn’t shout for attention. But if you look closer, you’ll see it’s holding something deeper than fabric.

Ekiti Aso Oke is different. The kind of difference that makes designers pause. The kind that shows you fashion doesn’t have to be loud to be powerful. If you’ve never heard of it, you’re not alone. And that’s precisely what makes it worth discovering.

 

Ekiti Aso Oke Patterns Are Not Like the Rest

Why Ekiti Aso Oke is the Most Underrated Nigerian FabricSearch “Aso Oke design” online and you’ll find glossy images of shiny stripes, sequins, and bold colours. Most of these come from the Oyo and Iseyin regions.

Instead, it’s full of broken symmetry zigzags, diamonds, and chevrons that look like secret symbols. These are not random designs. Weavers in towns like Igbemo and Efon-Alaye say the off-grid patterns reflect family histories, old town symbols, and even coded meanings.

If you’ve ever spotted a wrapper that looks like a master jacquard machine made it but was somehow softer and richer, chances are, it came from the hands of an Ekiti weaver. 

 

The Loom Is Narrow But the Detail Is Deep

Here’s something people rarely understand about Nigerian traditional fabric. The type of loom shapes the entire look of the cloth. They use narrow horizontal looms in Ekiti, not the larger ones found in Oyo or Kwara. These looms only allow strips that are four to six inches wide.

So what happens? The weaver has to go deeper with each line. Instead of printing designs across a whole cloth, they build the fabric slowly, connecting strip after strip. Each one holds a part of the final pattern. The texture feels different when you run your hands across it. It’s not just a wrapper. It’s layers of thought stitched together.

And this limited loom width? It gives the Ekiti fabric its unusual texture, something designers like Kenneth Ize and Nkwo often look for when sourcing handmade Nigerian fabric for runways.

 

The Meaning Behind Ekiti Aso Oke Patterns Would Surprise You

Why Ekiti Aso Oke is the Most Underrated Nigerian FabricEkiti Iro Oke is not just fabric for party guests. The patterns carry coded language.

A diamond pattern might be called ajapa oke, which speaks of Ekiti Hill’s signs of resilience, strength, and rootedness. V-shaped chevrons hint at direction or movement, and they are sometimes worn by women stepping into marriage or elders returning from travel.

Some weavers say certain line breaks or thread knots even represent real-life events. So when an Ekiti bride wears a wrapper passed down from her grandmother, she’s not just wearing fabric. She’s stepping into memory.

 

Why Designers Are Eyeing Ekiti Weaves Again

In recent years, Nigerian designers have been returning to traditional roots. But not all traditions are equal in attention. While Lagos fashion shows often feature lace and Ankara mashups, some designers have quietly asked for Ado Ekiti pieces.

Why? Because it offers texture, mystery, and story that the mainstream doesn’t. Brands like Emmy Kasbit and Lagos Space Programme have begun experimenting with off-grid weaves and minimalist stripes that reflect old Yoruba symbols.

In private tailoring houses across Lagos, stylists now request Ekiti strips to make agbadas, mini-wrappers, and even trousers with a cultural touch. The goal isn’t to look flashy but to look informed.

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Why You’ve Probably Never Seen it on Instagram

Here’s the irony: its richness is also why it’s been ignored. In an age where everything is about shine and “what’s trending,” this fabric sits in the background. It doesn’t scream for attention.

Most Instagram tailors don’t use it because the colours are often muted earth tones, wine, navy, and forest green. The patterns aren’t loud. But this quiet look is exactly why Nigerian fashion insiders start whispering about it.

The new trend? Wearing tradition in ways that make people ask, “Where did you get that?”

 

Different Designs of Aso Oke Designs

If You Want to Buy Ekiti Aso Oke, Here’s What to Know

  • Ask for handwoven pieces from Ado Ekiti, Ikere, or Igbemo.
  • Be ready for earth tones and subtle patterns.
  • Avoid anything shiny or polyester, it’s likely not from Ekiti.
  • Look for names like “Etu Ekiti” or “Ajapa weave”
  • Expect slightly narrower strips sewn together.

Some vendors on Instagram and Twitter now sell authentic ones. But the best pieces are still found in old trunks and family homes.

From streetwear to statement pieces, explore fashion and style in Nigeria with Rex Clarke Adventures!

 

FAQs

1. What is Ekiti Aso Oke?

It is a traditional hand-woven Yoruba fabric made in Ekiti State. Unlike the popular Oyo styles, it features off-grid patterns like diamonds and chevrons and is made on narrow looms.

2. Is Aso Oke still used in modern Nigerian fashion?

Yes. Designers and stylists in Lagos are requesting it again for agbadas, wrappers, and menswear with cultural depth.

3. How is Ekiti Aso Oke different from regular Aso Oke?

While most Aso Oke use straight-line patterns and bold colours, Ekiti versions use chevrons, diamonds, and symbolic designs that reflect history and land.

4. Where can I buy the original Ekiti Aso Oke?

The best places are Ado Ekiti, Igbemo, and Ikere local markets. Some online vendors now sell authentic handwoven strips through Instagram or custom requests.

5. Why is Ekiti Aso Oke becoming popular again?

Because people are looking beyond flashy designs, Ekiti fabric offers depth, culture, and a story that many fashion lovers now crave.

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