Pioneering Nigerian Designers Who Shaped Lagos Fashion Before the 1990s

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Before the 1990s, Lagos had already established itself as a thriving hub of creativity, not only in music and art but also in fashion. This was a period when the city’s streets, markets, and boutiques reflected a fusion of traditional Nigerian culture with emerging Western influences. Clothing was not merely functional; it became a statement of social identity, status, and modernity. During this era, pioneering designers began shaping Lagos fashion in ways that would influence generations to come.

These designers worked in a post-colonial Nigeria, navigating the tension between preserving cultural heritage and embracing international style trends. Imported fabrics, Western tailoring, and modern silhouettes were combined with local textiles like aso-oke, Ankara, and adire. Not only did Lagosians, especially the elite and middle class, look to these designers for outfits, but also for symbols of sophistication and self-expression. Designers became cultural storytellers, using fashion to project confidence, elegance, and national pride.

These early designers left a legacy that paved the way for the global recognition of the contemporary Nigerian fashion scene. Their innovation, risk-taking, and attention to detail created an environment in Lagos where fashion was a solemn profession, not just a hobby. This article examines some of the most influential old Nigerian designers who shaped Lagos fashion before the 1990s and explores their contributions to the industry’s evolution.

 

Shade Thomas-Fahm: Nigeria’s First Fashion Designer

Shade Thomas-Fahm is widely recognised as Nigeria’s first formally trained fashion designer. After completing her studies at St. Martin’s School of Art in London, she returned to Lagos in 1960 and opened Maison Shade, the first boutique of its kind in Nigeria. Thomas-Fahm’s designs fused Western tailoring with African fabrics, creating looks that were elegant, versatile, and distinctly Nigerian.

Her influence extended beyond clothing. Thomas-Fahm emphasised cultural pride and professionalism in fashion. She trained local tailors, collaborated with international textile manufacturers, and introduced the concept of fashion shows to Nigeria. Politicians, socialites, and cultural icons often wore her designs, making her one of the most visible voices in Lagos fashion. By bridging the gap between African heritage and modern aesthetics, Thomas-Fahm inspired a generation of designers and consumers to see fashion as both art and identity.

 

Maureen Onigbanjo: Bold Colours and Cultural Pride

Maureen Onigbanjo emerged as a leading figure in the 1970s and 1980s. She was known for her fearless approach to colour, pattern, and texture. Onigbanjo’s signature style combined vibrant prints with intricate cuts, reflecting Nigeria’s rich textile heritage while creating modern, wearable art.

Her boutiques in Lagos became cultural landmarks, frequented by celebrities, diplomats, and fashion enthusiasts. Onigbanjo also organised some of the earliest fashion shows in Nigeria, showcasing collections that highlighted local fabrics alongside Western-inspired silhouettes. She encouraged Lagosians to embrace boldness in dress, making fashion a vehicle for self-expression. Her work demonstrated that Nigerian designers could be both creative and commercially successful, inspiring younger designers to explore innovative approaches to traditional fabrics.

 

Odio Mimonet: Elegance Rooted in Tradition

Odio Mimonet, although she rose to prominence in the early 2000s, established her design foundation in the late 1970s and 1980s, becoming known for elegant pieces that fused African aesthetics with contemporary style. Her designs emphasised flow, structure, and attention to detail, often incorporating Ankara, lace, and hand-woven fabrics into modern cuts.

Mimonet’s influence was significant in professional circles. She dressed government officials, business leaders, and cultural figures, establishing a reputation for sophistication and elegance. Her approach inspired Lagos tailors and boutiques to elevate their standards, contributing to a broader professionalisation of the fashion industry. Her work demonstrated that elegance could be both modern and deeply rooted in African tradition.

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Abi Morocco: Capturing Lagos Fashion

While not a designer, photographer Abi Morocco played a critical role in documenting Lagos fashion before the 1990s. His images captured the street style of Lagosians, the work of designers like Thomas-Fahm and Onigbanjo, and the dynamic interplay between tradition and modernity. Morocco’s photographs were widely circulated, giving designers visibility and inspiring aspiring fashion enthusiasts. His work serves as a historical archive, preserving the evolution of Lagos fashion for future generations.

 

Broader Trends in Lagos Fashion Before the 1990s

The designers of this era did more than create clothing; they shaped how Lagosians understood style. Key trends included:

• Fusion of Western and African Styles: Tailored suits, Western-style dresses, and coats were paired with Ankara, adire, and aso-oke.
• Street Influence: Lagos street markets provided fabrics, inspiration, and accessible versions of designer clothing.
• Colour and Print: Designers experimented with bold colours, patterns, and textures, making fashion expressive and symbolic.
• Formalisation of Fashion Business: Designers opened boutiques, conducted shows, and trained tailors, creating a sustainable industry.
  

These trends laid the foundation for the post-1990s explosion of Nigerian fashion, when designers such as Deola Sagoe and Maki Oh gained international recognition. 

Legacy

We still feel the impact of these old Nigerian designers today. They elevated fashion to a profession, bridged traditional and modern aesthetics, and created an aspirational culture in Lagos. Contemporary designers, boutiques, and fashion schools in Nigeria owe a great deal to the standards and creativity set by pioneers such as Shade Thomas-Fahm, Maureen Onigbanjo, and Odio Mimonet.

Lagos continues to be a hub of African fashion innovation, a legacy directly traceable to these early visionaries. Their work proved that Nigerian culture and style could coexist with global trends without losing authenticity.

 

Showcase Nigeria Through Your Lens – Join Our Open Call for Creators

Are you a photographer, videographer, or content creator passionate about capturing Nigeria’s beauty, from fashion runways and cultural festivals to tourist landmarks and local events? Our Open Call for Content Creators in Nigeria is your opportunity to get featured, collaborate, and bring authentic Nigerian stories to life. Whether you’re into travel, lifestyle, or visual storytelling, we want to see Nigeria through your eyes.

For more stylish insights and the latest fashion inspiration straight from Nigeria, explore our full coverage on Nigerian Fashion Trends.

 

FAQs

1. Who was Nigeria’s first fashion designer?

Shade Thomas-Fahm is recognised as Nigeria’s first formally trained fashion designer and the founder of Maison Shade in Lagos.

2. What fabrics and styles were popular in Lagos before the 1990s?

Designers used fabrics like Ankara, aso-oke, lace, and adire, blending them with Western cuts such as tailored suits, dresses, and coats. Bold prints, vibrant colours, and intricate tailoring defined the Lagos fashion scene.

3. Where can I see examples of pre-1990s Lagos fashion?

Historical archives, photography exhibitions, vintage Lagos boutiques, and publications like ThisDay Style showcase the work of pre-1990s designers. Museums and online collections also feature curated examples of early Nigerian fashion.

4. How did old Lagos fashion designers influence modern Nigerian fashion?

Pre-1990s designers professionalised the industry, introduced international standards, and blended African heritage with global trends. Their innovations paved the way for contemporary designers like Deola Sagoe, Lisa Folawiyo, and Maki Oh.

5. Who documented Lagos fashion before the 1990s?

Photographers like Abi Morocco captured street style, designer collections, and cultural fashion events, providing a visual archive of Lagos fashion before the 1990s.