Nigerians know how to celebrate their cultural heritage and fashion elements during their weddings. The materials and striking designs used in traditional Nigerian wedding clothes serve as a visual tribute to the country’s many ethnic groups.
However, hundreds of years of history are concealed beneath the layers of silk, lace, and embroidery. These garments are not just a matter of expression; they carry tradition, identity, and cultural pride. Let’s discover the origins and hidden history of traditional Nigerian wedding clothes.
Roots of Traditional Nigerian Wedding Clothes
The Yoruba Aso Oke and the Craft of Weaving:
One of the largest ethnic communities in the country, the Yoruba, is known for its elaborate and intricate weaving traditions that date back centuries. The Aso Oke, the most famous textile worn at Yoruba weddings, has its roots in ancient Oyo and Ife, some of the earliest Yoruba kingdoms.
Photo Source: New York Times.
Historians believe weaving was likely introduced in these areas through the Nok civilisation or contact with other advanced West African societies, like the Ashantis from Ghana or the Mali Empire, which was thriving in the 13th century AD.
Because of its labour-intensive process, the Aso Oke fabric became synonymous with prestige. Weaving is done mainly by men, who use looms that have been in use for many generations. This method results in highly textured and elaborate cloth. Historically, making such cloth was strictly controlled by certain families within the Yoruba, further adding to its rarity.
The most ancient Aso Oke fabrics are:
– Alaari: a cloth with a red hue that represents affection and energetic drive.
– Sanyan: a slightly brownish cloth mostly made of silk, worn to showcase prestige and richness.
– Etu: a dark blue cloth representing the depth and intelligence of an individual.
Traditionally, the Aso Oke is worn only by the Yoruba ruling class, religious leaders, and wealthy families during important events, such as weddings, coronations, and marriages. With the extensive trade in the area, there was a growing desire for Aso Oke fabric as families became richer.
Even now, despite modernisation, at weddings, the Aso Oke fabric is woven in the same traditional way and is still used during Yoruba weddings, which means that there is no complete break with southern traditions.
Wedding Attire of the Igbo Ethnic Group
The Benin Kingdom and Indian textiles influence the wedding attire of the Igbo ethnic group.
History records a robust and advanced state known as the Kingdom of Benin in modern southern Nigeria, which existed from the 1000s to the 1890s. This kingdom is also well-known for its metallic craftsmanship in bronze and bead coral works.
Photo Source: Event Design by DE.
During colonial rule, British and Indian merchants introduced George fabric, a commonly used material. The Europeanised cloth stands out with the luxurious designs and texture of Indian imports, which resurfaced in the 1900s. However, it did not take long before the Igbo relegated its importation for ceremonial wear to the status of designs for their fashions, altering the motifs of the fabric to suit local designs.
Coral beads, commonly used among Igbo brides and grooms, originate from the Benin Kingdom and have always been regarded as symbols of royalty and divinity. Only royalty, kings, and queens wore these beads when used. But over time, the use of coral expanded beyond the royals, becoming a key part of traditional dress for couples as a connection to their ancestors and the community’s hopes for children.
The Hausa/Fulani, Islamic Influences, and Native Babariga
The wedding attire of the Hausa/Fulani exhibits strong Islamic principles that were introduced to the northern states of Nigeria through commerce and conquest in the 11th century.
In the pre-Islamic era, the Hausa people wore simpler but warm clothes made from local fabrics. With the expansion of Islam, the Kaftan and Babariga, which are Eastern and North African styles, were introduced into the region and quickly became part of the royal and religious dress of the Hausa people. The advent of Islam brought new styles of dressing that encouraged modesty. The Babban Riga and Kaftan, worn by grooms during traditional Hausa/Fulani weddings, are borrowed clothing adorned by Arab traders who traversed through West Africa during the trans-Saharan trade.
A significant aspect of wedding attire for a Hausa/Fulani woman is the bridal veil, which is connected to Islam and represents purity and modesty. The use of embroidered caps and intricate design patterns on men’s attire during weddings reflects a long-preserved Islamic art form that continues in Northern Nigerian fashion today.
Remarkably, Babariga and Kaftan are essential, not just for marriage but also during political and religious activities, illustrating the deep connection between traditional Hausa/Fulani dressing, culture, and religion.
Influences on the Fashion Evolution of Wedding Attires in Nigeria
Prehistoric Trading: Before European colonisation, all regions of West Africa, including present-day Algeria, were engaged in trade. Items, such as clothing, travelled from Europe to North Africa, across the Sahara, and into the ocean. Such trades exposed some Nigerian tribes to different fabrics and patterns, leading to the development of distinctive African wear. This is evident in how the George fabric is worn by the Igbo and the Islamic dressing styles embraced by the Hausa/Fulani.
Westernisation and New Materials: In the 19th and 20th centuries, British India’s historical wear was introduced during the British military and administration’s presence. Mass-produced fabrics from other regions began to influence local dress. Certain materials, like Indian George and lace designs, became very popular among the Igbo and Yoruba ethnic groups, especially when incorporated into their traditional wedding clothes.
These materials were designed and manufactured abroad but quickly found their way into existing traditional outfits and practices.
Post-Colonial Cultural Resurgence: After Nigeria gained independence from colonial rule in 1960, there was a resurgence of interest in the country’s cultural heritage. It is no coincidence that ethnic groups like the Yorubas, Igbos, and Hausa/Fulanis began promoting their traditional wear, especially during social functions such as weddings, to preserve their history and instil national pride. Wedding fashions began to serve as a tool against Western cultural imperialism while respecting Nigeria’s cultural diversity.
The Historical Importance of Wedding Accessories
In addition to the primary gowns, wedding accessories in Nigeria are deeply rooted in history.
Coral Beads: Continuing the earlier theme, coral beads were reserved for the rich and powerful in ancient Benin and among the Igbo culture. Over time, however, these beads became common among both brides and grooms in many Nigerian traditions. They were traded from the Mediterranean and treated with high reverence for rituals and joyous occasions.
Photo Source: Brides.
Headpieces and Crowns: Many brides in Nigeria wear headgear adorned with beautiful intricate designs, such as the Yoruba gele or the Igbo ichafu, which were historically worn by women of royalty. This practice respects cultural traditions, and these headpieces connect brides to their royal heritage.
Conclusion
The history of traditional Nigerian wedding clothes is as diverse and rich as the country itself. These garments, from the Yoruba Aso Oke to the George fabric of the Igbo and the Babariga of the Hausa/Fulani, are more than just beautiful outfits. They embody culture, heritage, and identity, intricately woven into Nigerian society over the ages.
As young couples celebrate their marriages today, they continue to honour this rich history, ensuring that its cultural significance remains strong even as new trends emerge in the evolution of Nigerian wedding fashion.