Fashion is one cultural aspect of British colonialism that significantly impacted Nigeria. Before colonisation, Nigerians wore various traditional attire defined by their cultural characteristics, such as ethnicity and social standing.
To represent their origins, various ethnic communities dressed differently, using materials sourced locally. The arrival of colonisers in Nigeria in the late 19th century marked a complete turnaround in governance, the economy, and, most importantly, fashion.
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In this article, we will explore how British colonialism influenced the evolution of Nigerian fashion before independence to the present day, examining the extent to which Western styles penetrated local traditions and how Nigerians later appropriated and combined such elements into a wide range of designs.
Pre-colonial Nigerian Fashion: A Cultural and Ethnic Identity
Before the British colonial administration, Nigerian fashion was deeply influenced by the customs and traditions of its various ethnic groups. Clothing was closely connected to the land, the people, and their respective customs. Given Nigeria’s multi-ethnic composition, diverse fashion traditions were shaped by climatic conditions, available resources, and the cultural beliefs associated with them.
Northern Nigeria
In the north, the Hausa and Fulani were known for their modest, flowing garments, such as the “babanriga” and “kaftan.” These robes were suitable for the hot, arid climate and reflected their Islamic beliefs on modesty.
Southwestern Nigeria
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The Yoruba people’s attire included elaborate garments, such as the men’s “Agbada” and the women’s “iro” and “buba,” which were usually made from handwoven materials like “aso oke.” These outfits were essential during ceremonies and indicated one’s social class.
Southeastern Nigeria
The Igbo people preferred less elaborate clothing compared to their southwestern counterparts, as they emphasised practicality. The traditional dress for men comprised an Isi Agu” tunic, while women wrapped themselves in locally made fabrics.
Pre-colonial Nigerian clothing was more than just fabric; it conveyed culture, pride, identity, and order. Each tribe’s patterns were closely connected to its ethnic origin, and the colours, symbols, and other designs were loaded with specific meanings.
British Colonisation and the Use of Fashion as a Tool
The inception of British colonialism in Nigeria dates back to October 1885, when the British government officially recognised Nigeria as part of its empire. This brought about significant changes—political and economic control and the incorporation of British clothing styles into Nigerian fashion. The colonial officers, missionaries, and settlers brought Victorian-era clothing styles, often regarding Western clothing as symbols of civilisation and modernity.
The British emphasised “civilised” dressing as a sign of progress at the time. Nigerians, especially urban dwellers, were encouraged to wear Western outfits. Men were urged to wear shirts, trousers, and suits, while women were introduced to gowns and skirts, considered “decent” according to English standards.
Fashion’s Influence on Education and Missionaries
Christianity significantly influenced African dress codes through missionaries who established schools and promoted European-style clothing alongside Western education. Female converts, in particular, were encouraged to wear long dresses and head coverings to distance themselves from traditional clothing, which missionaries often called primitive or pagan.
In urban areas of Nigeria, particularly Lagos, social pressure forced people to begin accepting forms of dress from the West as part of their assimilation into colonial society. Attire typical of Europe started symbolising education, social climbing, and community standing for Nigerian civil servants in the colonial administration.
Although many Nigerians accepted this trend, some did not abandon indigenous styles. Instead, there was a combination of local and external designs, which gave rise to entirely different dressing forms.
Resistance and Adaptation: The Evolution of Nigerian Fashion Under Colonial Rule
When the imposition of Western dressing standards seemed inevitable, many Nigerians devised means to keep their culture alive in fashion. They borrowed materials and designs for their traditional outfits and incorporated them into their European dress code, giving birth to a one-time fusion that had never been seen before.
Local Fabric Integration
Nigerian fashion had a fusion that transformed it by adopting Ankara, Aso Oke, and Adire fabrics into Western clothes. For example, Ankara could be used to make suits or design motifs for the gown. The consequence of this was a compromise with British colonial dressing laws, but they still managed to stay connected with their origin.
Ceremonial Setting as the Stage for Traditional Dress
Even as Western trends gripped people’s everyday lives, especially in urban areas, notable Nigerian ceremonies would remain incomplete without a touch of traditional clothing. ” The resurgence of customary clothes was most noticeable during weddings, funerals, traditional rituals, or festivals when men turned out in their “Agbada.” At the same time, women wore “gentle” in the head to emphasise that although the British influenced our dress code daily, some aspects of our indigenous culture were too entrenched to be eliminated.
Post-Independence and the Rebirth of Nigerian Fashion
Nigeria attained independence in 1960, leading to years of a cultural revival. As the Nigerians attempted to reconstruct their sense of themselves, clothing became essential.
Afrocentrism is present in independence and post-independence social-cultural settings since Nigerians who felt their source were beginning to wear traditional clothing as a sign of pride in culture and rejection of colonisation. During this period, they witnessed the comeback of Ankara and other home-designed materials as an option and replacement for Western apparel.
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Globalisation, on the other hand, has played a significant role in Nigerian fashion since its independence as it veered towards tradition while at the same time absorbing international approaches. Nigeria’s identity as a melting pot of cultures during the decades saw her grapple with Afrocentric style and influences of the wider world community as they tried to create a unique fashion that was an amalgamation of diverse styles from different countries.
The contemporary Nigerian style provides evidence that the country can mix the latest trends with what has existed for a long time. Although it was colonised by the British, modern Nigerian fashion is still very much Nigerian.
British Colonialism’s Lasting Impact on Modern Nigerian Fashion
Nigerians still wear most suits, shirts, and even ancient dresses. These are mostly worn for unofficial purposes, including politics and businesses.
In a world characterised by ever-increasing internationalisation, it is no surprise that Nigerian fashion is also taking the course. Designers like Deola Sagoe and Maki Oh have globalised Nigerian fashion through traditional fabrics in contemporary designs that appeal to people beyond national boundaries. Just like the colonial fusion during British rule, we have both old and new schools in our designs because of this mixture.
Conclusion
From the perspective of Nigerian fashion, British colonialism had a significant impact by introducing new Western dressing methods into local customs and facing resistance from them. Over the years, Nigerians from all walks of life have made these influences their own, still embracing their roots, leading to a fashion style that is uniquely Nigerian.
Nigerian fashion has been a journey of resistance, change, and celebration of national identity since colonisation began when the British took it over and continues to this day. The Nigerian style reflects these changes: it is lively because so many things are happening around us, yet we never lose sight of our roots.