Nigeria is well-known for its culture, which includes events, food, and, of course, fashion. During weddings and other events, Nigerians demonstrate self-expression and ingenuity by creating outfits from both old and new items. Have you ever wondered about the origins of most of the costumes we see today? This post discusses Aso Oke Nigeria fashion fabric, from essentials to style!
Stay tuned as we explore its historical and cultural background. Also, which ceremonies they attend and other significant aspects of Aso Oke.
THE HISTORY AND CULTURAL CONTEXT OF ASO-OKE
Source: Google
Aso-Oke, a version of Aso Ilu Oke, which translates to ‘upcountry clothes,’ holds a significant place in the traditional clothing of Yoruba culture. It’s a proverb in Nigeria that a ‘withuba’ event is incomplete without Aso-Oke. Whether you’re at a Nigerian wedding in Lagos or anywhere else worldwide, the presence of Aso-Oke is a testament to its deep-rooted cultural significance, connecting us to the rich heritage of Yoruba culture.
For instance, a traditional Yoruba king may be anointed with wearing an Aso-Oke to demonstrate this cloth’s value. A Yoruba bride wants to appear lovely in an Aso-Oke style. The fabric is not just a piece of clothing, but a symbol of tradition, respect, and celebration in Yoruba culture. The intricate patterns and vibrant colors of Aso-Oke often carry specific meanings and are chosen to reflect the significance of the event or the status of the wearer.
In most instances, the attractiveness of Aso-Oke is enhanced when worn as “Aso-Ebi” (a local name for clothes for friends, family, or a group).
Cloth weaving (Aso-Oke) began centuries ago among the Yorubas, particularly among the Iseyins (Oyo-State), Ede (Osun State), Okene (Kogi State), and certain regions of Ghana. The fibres used in weaving are either locally obtained or acquired from neighbouring states, such as the North.The Yoruba are Nigeria’s second-biggest tribe, behind the Northerners.
Aso-Oke is not just a fabric but a part of the Yorubas’ major life events. It’s worn during throne festivals, engagements, naming ceremonies, and other significant occasions, adding a touch of tradition and elegance to these moments.
PREPARATION AND MAKING OF ASO-OKE
Source:Google
Cotton and dye are the key raw materials used to make Aso-Oke. The dyes, silk, and fibres used to make various varieties of Aso-Oke are either locally obtained or acquired from Hausa, with some imported from Tunisia, Italy, and France.
PLANTING OF COTTONS: Cotton is needed to make the threads used in weaving Aso-Oke, and it is mainly cultivated during the rainy season, which lasts from June to July. However, the cottons would be ready to harvest between November and February of the following year. After harvesting, the cottons are usually retained in the bar for weaving.
SPINNING: Spinning is the technique of extracting cotton seed from wool. And while doing so, a bow-like instrument known as “Orun” in Yoruba (Spindler). The weaver spreads out the wool and rolls it onto the loom. The Spindler would be cranked, and as it rotated, the cotton would thin. This is done continuously until all of the wool has been spun.
SORTING: Cotton behaves like magnates, collecting dirt quickly; as a result, the dirt must be removed from the wool before it can be used. This is known as sorting, and there are machines for this purpose, but if they are not available, it can be done manually. This is quite laborious and time-consuming.
PATTERNING: This is the method of creating designs and patterns on the Aso-Oke as the fabric is being woven. The materials used in fabric patterning include the following:
❖ Akata (propeller)
❖ Iye (long wheel)
❖ Akawo (short wheel)
❖ Gowu and kikgun (rollers)
❖ Aasa (strikers)
❖ Omu (extender) is used to hold the reels
❖ Sanrin (metallic peg)
During patterning, cotton reels are hung on hangers attached to sets of metallic pegs on the ground. The reason for this is to bundle the cotton.
WEAVING: The weaving process is a meticulous and skilled task that begins after the preceding steps are completed. The rolled cotton will be precisely put into the Striker using the extenders. The weaver will fasten Iro (filler) to his seat. The staff has two or more holes in which a small peg is tagged. The upper hand of the Omu (Extenders) has an Okeke (Wheel or Axle) for pulling the Omu higher and downward. The weaver then begins the intricate process of weaving, using the pedals and the Striker to carefully adjust the cotton and create the desired pattern.
The weaver handles the Oko (Motor) and tosses it into the open cotton to be received by his other hand; the motor continues to run quicker as if the weaver is not touching it at all. The reel within the motor will begin to make a unique sound.
As the weaver works in this manner, the fabric progressively expands forward. The weaver uses the drawer to pull the cloth towards himself, and the carrier moves towards him as the weaving progresses. Aso-Oke is a beautiful sight, so how cotton may transform into Aso-Oke in minutes is impressive. However, the outfits are known by several names based on their type, texture, and quality.
Aso-Oke is initially made of three types, each with unique characteristics and cultural significance. These types are Etu, Sanyan, and Alaari.
Etu: Etu is a dark blue, nearly black, indigo-dyed textile with tiny light blue stripes. Etu means ‘guinea fowl’, and the material is claimed to mirror the bird’s plumage.
Sanyan: Sanyan is woven from beige silk sourced locally from Anaphe moth cocoons, resulting in a pale brown/beige textile.
Alaari: Alaari is woven from discarded magenta silk threads, symbolising a vibrant blend of sustainability and culture.
In conclusion, Aso-Oke is an everlasting Nigerian culture, style, and tradition icon. Its rich history, elaborate designs, and brilliant colours have established it as a classic cloth in Nigeria and worldwide. Beyond its visual appeal, Aso-Oke tells stories of lineage, identity, and craftsmanship, connecting Nigeria’s vast cultural fabric.
As fashion trends evolve, Aso-Oke is adaptable, incorporating modern styles and patterns. Yet, its enduring appeal and relevance make Aso-Oke an integral part of Nigerian fashion, preserving heritage while embracing new ideas and ensuring a sense of continuity and tradition in Nigerian fashion.