Dyeing in Abeokuta is a long-standing tradition that has shaped Nigeria’s fashion, identity, and local business. Known for producing Adire fabric, Abeokuta is home to some of the most skilled dyers in the country. The process, often passed down from generation to generation, involves careful steps, unique tools, and a deep understanding of how patterns and colours tell stories.
This article breaks down the key things to know about the Adire dyeing process in Abeokuta, why it’s still relevant today, and what makes it different from other fabric-making methods.
What is Dyeing in Abeokuta All About?

A lady tying clothes before dying at Adireire Kampala Market Abeotuta in Nigeria.
Abeokuta is known as the centre of Adire production in Nigeria. Adire means “tie and dye” in Yoruba, and it refers to fabrics designed by applying resist methods before dipping them in dye, usually indigo. What sets dyeing in Abeokuta apart is how local artisans use their tools, recipes, and hand-drawn designs, often not found elsewhere.
There are different types of Adire fabrics, including:
- Adire Eleko – where starch is used to paint patterns
- Adire Oniko – where raffia is tied around the fabric
- Adire Alabere – where stitches are used to create designs
Each style requires time, experience, and special techniques to execute correctly.
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The History of Adire Making in Abeokuta
Adire dyeing in Abeokuta began in the early 20th century. Local women, especially from the Egba community, were the early producers. One of the first documented names linked to the growth of Adire was Jojolola Soetan, who lived in the Kemta area. Women like her helped turn Adire into a household name in markets across southwest Nigeria.
The original dye was made from fermented leaves known as elu, which gave the deep blue indigo colour that many still prefer today. The patterns created on these fabrics often told stories, shared family values, or marked essential events. Over time, the technique became not just a cultural practice but also a key source of income for many families in Abeokuta.
Tools and Materials Used
Knowing what materials are involved in understanding the art of dyeing in Abeokuta is essential.
These include:
- Indigo dye (natural or synthetic)
- White cotton fabric
- Starch or cassava paste (used in Adire Eleko)
- Raffia or thread (used for tying or stitching)
- Wooden blocks or metal stencils
- Rubber gloves, bowls, sticks, dye pits, and drying lines
The process starts with preparing the fabric, applying the chosen design method, soaking it in the indigo dye, and allowing it to dry. Some fabrics use this process multiple times to deepen the colour or layer the designs.
Why Dyeing in Abeokuta is Still Relevant Today
The popularity of Adire has grown beyond Abeokuta. Fashion designers in Nigeria and abroad use Adire fabrics in traditional and modern clothing. There is a growing market for locally made textiles, and Abeokuta remains at the centre of this shift.
Many women who make Adire in Abeokuta do so from home or in small workshops around places like Itoku Market, which is a major hub for production and sales. The process supports small businesses, helps preserve Yoruba culture, and offers a cheaper alternative to imported prints.
Challenges Facing the Adire Industry in Abeokuta
- The rise of machine-printed fake Adire fabrics
- Lack of support for local producers
- Environmental concerns from dye waste entering nearby rivers
- Fewer young people are interested in learning the trade
Organisations and local creatives are slowly addressing these issues, wanting to preserve the tradition while adapting it for the future.
Where to Learn or Buy Adire in Abeokuta
Abeokuta offers several options for those interested in seeing or learning about the dyeing process.
Itoku Market – A well-known place to buy original Adire and see how it’s made
Kenta and Ijemo Areas – Home to many of the original Adire producers
Some artisans also offer short classes or guided tours, especially during cultural festivals or by appointment.
Buying directly from the producers helps keep the art form alive and supports the local economy.
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Modern Uses and Innovation
While traditional methods are still standard, some Adire makers in Abeokuta are experimenting with other colours, materials, and techniques. Multi-colour dyeing, digital prints, and mixed fabrics are now entering the market. However, the original deep indigo and hand-painted designs remain the most trusted by collectors and fashion lovers.
Conclusion
Dyeing in Abeokuta is more than a job; it is a heritage. Every fabric tells a story, and every pattern holds meaning. As fashion evolves, this tradition stays relevant by blending cultural roots with modern demands. Understanding and supporting Adire production is a step in the right direction for those who value handmade fabrics and Nigerian culture.
For more stylish insights and the latest fashion inspiration straight from Nigeria, explore our full coverage on Nigerian Fashion Trends.
FAQs
1. What is Adire dyeing in Abeokuta?
Adire dyeing in Abeokuta is a traditional fabric-making process involving resist dyeing techniques to create patterns on cloth, often using indigo.
2. Where can I buy original Adire in Abeokuta?
You can buy authentic Adire at Itoku Market, or directly from local makers in areas like Kemta, Kenta, and Ijemo.
3. What materials are used in Adire fabric making?
Key materials include white cotton fabric, cassava paste, indigo dye, raffia, thread, and hand-carved wooden blocks.
4. Is Adire still made by hand in Abeokuta?
Many producers in Abeokuta still use hand-dyeing methods that have been passed down through generations.
5. Can I learn Adire making in Abeokuta?
Yes, some artisans offer classes or private sessions to teach visitors the basics of Adire dyeing.