ADIRE originates from the Yoruba language, stemming from (adi) meaning “to tie” and (re) meaning “to dye.” It represents an indigo reverse-dyed fabric initially crafted and worn by the Egbaland community in the vibrant city of Abeokuta in southwestern Nigeria.
Adire translates to “dye and tie,” a substance created using wax-resist techniques that yield patterns in a fantastic range of colours.
Adire is widely used by the Egbaland community in Ogun State and throughout Yorubaland.
The Yoruba tribe of southwest Nigeria is the native home of the ancient Adire textile, pronounced Ah-DEE-reh. In addition to its rich history, this textile is rich in beauty and culture.
THE HISTORY AND CULTURAL CONTEXT OF ADIRE
Source: Google
Adire is a Yoruba word from (adi) “to tie” and (re) “to dye.” Adire is an indigo reverse-dyed cloth first produced and worn by the Egbaland people in the southwestern city of Abeokuta in Nigeria. Throughout the nineteenth century, the town was the hub for cotton production.
The term “adire” was expanded to include any hand-dyed fabric that employs wax-resist techniques to create patterned cloth when synthetic dyes began to be imported in the second half of the 20th century, adding to the colour palette. Since then, the technique has spread to other American cities and even to Uganda in East Africa, where a fabric known as “Kampala Adire” is currently produced.
THE ORIGIN OF ADIRE TEXTILE
Source: Google
In the film Odùduwà, the first wife of Oduduwa teaches women how to tie and dye garments. The film’s premise is that clothing was exclusively available in white hues before the invention of tie-dye textiles.
While putting this article together, we learned that the Tellem burial caves in Mali may have been the source of Adire’s creation. One of the archaeological discoveries is a cap featuring the well-known and enduring Osubamba motif, which is prevalent in Yoruba Adire art.
Together with this, the Yoruba people of the Old Oyo kingdom used trade, warfare, and political dominance to export their art throughout and outside of West Africa.
THE MAKING OF ADIRE TEXTILE
The first Adire material was created using Elu, a local dye from elu leaves grown in Oyo State’s Saki region, and Teru, a traditional white garment. The 20th century saw a rise in tie-dye artisans and creative endeavours as more imported fabrics from European merchants became accessible for dying.
Source: Google
One might ask why tie the cotton fabric before dying it. To put it simply, the tying technique stops the dye from soaking into a specific area of the tied fabric.
According to Gausa Solomon and Abubakar Ezra’s academic study published in the Journal of African Studies, Adire patterns are created by pleating fabric. This is done by dyeing and knotting it or sewing with thread or raffia fibre made from banana leaves to prevent the colour from leaking inside the folds.
Nigeria saw the development of new resist dyeing techniques as more cotton fabrics became available for dying. Wikipedia states that Nigeria currently uses three main resistive techniques:
THREE MAIN RESIST TECHNIQUES
❖ Oniko: This method creates tiny white circles on a blue background by tying raffia around hundreds of individual corn kernels or pebbles. The fabric can also be folded into stripes or twisted and tied to itself.
❖ Alabere: The process involves sewing raffia designs onto fabric before dying, with the spine sewn after stripping the raffia palm. Some remove the raffia after dyeing, while others leave it for wear and tear.
❖ Eleko: To prevent dying, the fabric is painted with cassava paste, like block printing using chicken feathers or calabash. Metal stencils from tin sheets line tea chests have been used since the early 1900s.
Tie-and-dye patterns are created by pulling fabric sections regularly, binding them before dying, and then removing the tied portion to make circles. Seeds or pebbles can also be tied into the fabric. Before dying, impressions can be sewn into the fabric.
ADIRE’S JOURNEY THROUGH THE GLOBE
African-derived expertise was transported across nations and beyond the continent through traders, who either moved goods or used illegal means like the slave trade to facilitate these changes.
Many enslaved people were skilled weavers during the slave trade, and their owners exploited this talent as an additional source of revenue. This is one of the methods used by some African cultural heritage to spread across continents.
Source: Google
During that time, textiles served as a means of identifying a tribe; each had distinctive patterns that made it simple to identify outsiders. In the case of Adire, it is said that since tie-dye production was a part of the family’s legacy, non-members of specific families were prohibited from participating for a considerable amount of time.
According to history, the tie-dye method was accepted as an artistic medium in several nations. According to a publication on Tie-Dye US, it gained popularity during the Vietnam War era.
People at this time yearned for tranquillity and an escape from the oppressive concept of parents and authority. During this challenging period in American history, tie-dye was a form of artistic expression (as well as protest) for the free-spirited, unrestrained hippie and psychedelic generation.
These creative, peaceful people adorned everything that would flaunt their uniqueness, including t-shirts, tapestries, curtains, and pants! People were happy when they wore tie-dye, and they still are! It still stands as the ultimate representation of the 1960s! In all of its manifestations, tie-dye is not just a textile art form but also a part of global history.
WAYS ADIRE HAS BEEN USED IN HISTORY TILL DATE
There are countless things you can do with clothing.
The Adire textile is now used for purposes other than making clothes. These days, it’s being applied creatively in various contexts. It can be used to create notepads, pillows, wall art, lampshades, and other items.
Adire, a Nigerian craft, showcases the artistic talent of Nigerian craftspeople and their cultural significance. Despite its modest beginnings, it has adapted to modern trends while maintaining traditional methods. Adire reflects Nigeria’s cultural legacy and people’s resilience, with its elaborate patterns and striking hues proving its relevance in the modern world.
The investigation of Adire reveals that this art form represents cultural continuity, pride, and identity. We honour artisans who preserve its legacy, ensuring its beauty and significance last for future generations while cherishing and celebrating it.